This week · Markets
The last night-market cooks of Harbour Row
Eleven stalls, one shared generator and a rice cooker older than the market itself.
By Mairead Quinlan · 9 minute read
At ten past eleven, Mrs Adeyemi lifts the lid on a pot she has kept going since 1998, and the queue, which has been patient for twenty minutes, leans forward as one. Harbour Row has fed the late shift at the docks for forty years. The council's lease ends in March.
We spent three nights with the cooks who are staying, the two who have already left, and the dock workers who say they will not eat anywhere else.
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